The Bozzle nozzle is the very first high flow (and lower back pressure) tungsten carbide nozzle for 3D printing applications.
Tungsten carbide nozzles are capable of printing all 3D printing filaments due to their exceptional hardness, ultra high operating temperature and high thermal conductivity.
No inserts – constructed out of a solid piece of tungsten carbide there are no inserts here
Non stick surface finish
Significantly increased layer to layer adhesion at same printing temperatures vs hardened steel nozzles
Compatible with V6 and MK8 hotend heatblock
This nozzle requires hot tightening. Install the nozzle, heat hotend to 20c over desired use, and hand tighten with a 6mm or 1/4″ socket.
The POT is pretty much the same as half of the King of Tone, with an external MODE switch standard. It is the same as the KOT with HIGHER GAIN option, so you can use the full range of the DRIVE knob and it has a little more drive at the top than a normal gain KOT. The DISTORTION mode is improved though, for a louder, stronger distortion sound. See http://www.kingoftone.com for more info.
Power Jack is standard on the POT –
The TREBLE trimpot is inside, just like the KOT.
There are also two new DIP switches inside! They are a bit subtle at some knob settings and modes:
DIP1 : LO-MID lift switch. The tone from your lower strings will be enhanced a little when DIP switch is ON.
DIP2: TURBO switch- with higher gain settings you’ll hear deeper compression, especially in DIST mode. You will hear a brighter, crunchier sound with this on at higher DRIVE settings when this DIP switch is ON.
The three modes, as on the KOT, are:
1) Normal Overdrive mode (OD mode): This is the standard King Of Tone sound, – a touch drive available than a tube screamer. Can get much louder than a tube screamer. The RED side of KOT has this setting from the factory.
2) CLEAN mode : This mode has less distortion, it can be used for clean boosts or clearer, louder sounds. It’s sort of a cross between a true clean boost and an overdrive. CLEAN MODE is even less compressed and louder than the OD mode. I love this mode with high drive settings too! The YELLOW side of KOT has this setting from the factory.
3) DISTORTION mode : more drive than the standard mode- a touch of hard distortion. The sound is more compressed, yet retains the pedal’s character. Same volume as OD mode.
At low DRIVE settings, or when playing softly, there is not much difference between the three modes, they all can get pretty clean and have the same level at low drive settings. The ability to clean up when playing softly is a very useful feature of this pedal. The Drive knob works like the KOT with HIGHER GAIN OPTION, so you can set it anywhere and get great tones.
The DRIVE knob taper is different than the KOT. It comes up faster and more linear, while KOT has a lot going on from 2:00 to max. So comparison to a KOT with HG option will not be the same at the same knob position unless it’s up all the way, where they are the same.
We are making these by hand in China by the same people who are making our Analog Delay. Though it’s made in China, we use the same parts as the King of Tone – best Japanese chip and capacitors, not cheap Chinese parts. No surface mount parts, NO ROBOTS, everything is vintage style and hand wired for easy maintenance and repairs unlike most Chinese pedals and most USA “boutique” machine-made pedals which are disposable if they have any problems like a pot, jack, or switch that wears out.
POWER SUPPLY: A Standard Boss PSA120 type 9V DC adapter will work fine. Center is negative. The pedal uses only about 6mA of current at 9V. You can get a fuzzier sound if you want, at lower voltages, for example the SAG mode on the pedalpower2. When your battery dies you will notice the pedal will not get nice and clean, the sound will be hairier. Use a good Alkaline battery or a power supply for best results. You can use higher voltage for more headroom, 12V is common, 18V is safe too. Clean boost may be improved the most with higher voltage.
CHIPS: You can also try other standard dual op-amp chips in the Prince of Tone. Just make sure you put it in the right way, with the pin#1 dot on the side with the chip socket cut-out. The TS-808’s JRC4558D chip sounds good in this pedal, especially with single coil guitars and smaller Fender type amps. You can try a high fidelity chip for the CLEAN mode which may work well.
We made our own case for this pedal, it’s lower and a little shorter than our Beano Boost / Orange Squeezer / large SunFace box, and a little bigger than the Astrotone / Peppermint / small Sunface size.
Size is 2.5″ wide x 4.5″ long x 1.5″ tall, not including switch/knobs/jacks.
If you run through some long cables to your amp, or through some tone sucking pedals (volume pedals, etc) you might want to add the optional buffer inside the POT. If you run the POT into a pedal with a good buffer like our ARDX20, then it’s not needed at all. There is no room for a battery with the Buffer option. The buffer will work great at higher voltages like 12V or 18V also. See our BUFFER page for more info.
1- Remove disk on tray 1 (named Volume1 in this tutorial), reboot
2- Insert the new bigger disk in tray 1
2a- ‘secure erase’ new HDD, reboot
3- Convert volume2 to RAID1. (I’ve not selected SHR, but RAID1), reboot
4- Exchange disks in Tray2 and Tray1, reboot
5- Remove disk in Tray 1, reboot -> Degraded status
7- Go to DSM Storage manager, HDD manage, you will have the option to extend volume 2 to get the full available space. Do this. Reboot
8- You must here have a Volume2 using the new hard disk, and with the full available space
9- Insert the previous disk Volume1
10- Here all should be fine, you should have Volume2 unchanged, but on your new HDD, with a whole available space
Three additional comments:
1. He replaced both disks (Basic Volumes 1 and 2) in his diskstation by running two times through the instructions by MathieuM68. Therefor he swapped the instructions on disks, volumes and trays accordingly. It works without problems and afterwards the system runs solid and with the same configuration like before, but with larger disk space of course 😉
2. In order to issue the command “mdadm” on the right RAID device (/dev/md?) I used
which lists all available RAID devices.
3. He could not issue the command “mdadm” directly, but it works with
These 2 overviews above are wrong cause ‘they’ used orbit data -around the sun- to calculate how long a planet was in a gate or line, but the movement around the Rave Mandala wheel is an orbit -around Earth-.
So I did some calculations and came up with this:
Mercury as short as 358 days and as long as 405 days, on average 366 days.
Duration in one Gate: ~5.7 days
Duration in a Line: ~22.9 hours
Venus as short as 293 days and as long as 410 days, on average 369 days
Duration in one Gate: ~5.8 days
Duration in one Line: ~23.1 hours
Mars as short as 528 days and as long as 712 days, on average 679 days.
Duration in one Gate: ~11 days
Duration in one Line: ~42.4 hours
Enable extra low-level configuration options
Bootloader offset to 128KiB + 512 byte offset
Clock Reference to 12 MHz crystal
Communication interface to USB (on PA11/PA12)
close and save
switch off mini (only)
put on pin over 2 prongs on pcb buddy board
switch on mini
sudo service klipper stop
make flash FLASH_DEVICE=0483:df11
sudo service klipper start
switch off mini (only)
take off pin over 2 prongs on pcb buddy board
switch on mini
today, I finished the main modification of the printer (I only want to change the wires soon) so the whole frame is changed, the hot-end, extruder, heatbreak and nozzle, and all printed parts were PETG are now ASA, instead of a Cantilever design it is now an H-frame with double Z axles, so the frame gives rigidity and structure to the printing, yet still running the original Prusa firmware (with some added G-codes)